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Free Climbing

U ntil recently Prokletije mountain range has lured over only the fans of traditional climbing in the big rocks, where there are few easy and short routes. Since May 2008, at the foot of these mountains, sport climbing has become a reality, thanks to a group of German climbers, who, with the assistance of the organization for technical support and cooperation – GTZ, have equipped about 100 routes in six sectors in the Ropojana Valley and Grebaja Valley, southwards of Gusinje. The gratest number of routes is located in the sectors near Alipasini izvori (AN Pasha Springs) – 65 of them, in the Djerani sector -13 routes, and in the sector Troja 10 routes have been equipped. In 2 sectors in Grebaja Valley, which is territory of National park “Prokletije”, about 10 shorter routes have been equipped, and those will come as a break between the climbing some of several hundred metres high classics in the surrounding rocks like Ocnjak (The Eyetooth), Sjeverni vrh (The Northern Peak), Koplje (The Spear), Presto (TheThrone)…

T hese training grounds, are primarily intended for the beginners and recreationists, but one shouldn’t forget that about a half of the routes here are very difficult, so even the advanced climbers won’t be bored. Some of the most beautiful routes in Ali-Pasa sector are Apolo 13, Auskneifer and Elektronik. Climbing season lasts from March/April to October/November. The greater numer of sectors with different orientation offers the opportunity for climbing even during the hottest summer days.

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